the brits tried already. the seppos are all irish anyways....can't bomb their own brothers
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Now, to pry into roots, to finger slime,
To stare, big-eyed Narcissus, into some spring
Is beneath all adult dignity. I rhyme
To see myself, to set the darkness echoing.
I can say without hesitation that my 3.5 years in Esfahan were the best of my life. I took all vacations driving around in-country because, as boonmee's pics show, Iran is beautiful. While I agree that the people (I met) were warm and very friendly, they also have an (overly) emotional side that can erupt very quickly. Husbands (1-3) and boyfriends (7-112) provided me with some wonderful insights into Iranian culture as well as some of the finest drama queen performances I have ever experienced.
I spent many fine afternoons at the Maidan-e-Shah (central bazaar square) in Esfahan admiring the incredible beauty of the architecture (see boonmee's pic of the Sheikh Lutfullah mosque) and the passing men.
Persepolis recently played at House here: excellent, and Offside (also at House) was good. The latter claims to have used non-actors in all roles, which may explain why the characters seemed so real.
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Majestically enthroned amid the vulgar herd....
How difficult is it for an American to get a visa for Iran then??
To be honest with you, it'd be difficult for an Irishman to get a tourist visa - but not impossible. For a Yank, it's even more difficult. As I understand it, you need to be booked on a tour (boring, I know, but it's the only way Americans can see Iran - the government just doesn't trust you!). So, I guess your first step is to get in contact with a tour company in Iran. The Iranian Embassy will probably be able to help you with that, but you could probably track one down on the internet.
If I were you, I'd go and have a chat to the guys at the Iranian Embassy. They should know what your chances are of getting the visa.
If you do get it, remember that you cannot use any ATMs in Iran (because of all the sanctions, only Iranian credit & debit cards can be used in Iran. That obviously means you'll have to take a load of cash with you (US dollars and GB pounds are best). You can change money in most jeweller's shops, and they don't rip you off (if you do it in a bank, you have to fill out endless forms - it's a real hassle).
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbo
I'm seriously interested in going there for 2 weeks minimum.
Good times of the year to visit?
Don't go over Persian New Year (around 21st March) as it's a national holiday. Don't go during Ramadan, as it'll be difficult to find a restaurant open. In the summer it's ridiculously hot.
I would say that Mid-February would probably be the best time.
I can say without hesitation that my 3.5 years in Esfahan were the best of my life.
Was wondering when you were going to contribute to this thread!
Sorry , by the way , my memory's crap; thought you'd been based in Shiraz (hence the comment about you recognising it).
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomcat
I took all vacations driving around in-country because, as boonmee's pics show, Iran is beautiful. While I agree that the people (I met) were warm and very friendly, they also have an (overly) emotional side that can erupt very quickly. Husbands (1-3) and boyfriends (7-112) provided me with some wonderful insights into Iranian culture as well as some of the finest drama queen performances I have ever experienced.
After more than 3 years, you'd certainly have a better insight into the Iranian character than I managed. I suspect my impressions of Iranians may seem rather superficial to you, tc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomcat
I spent many fine afternoons at the Maidan-e-Shah (central bazaar square) in Esfahan admiring the incredible beauty of the architecture (see boonmee's pic of the Sheikh Lutfullah mosque) and the passing men.
Now it's called Maidan-e-Imam, of course (or Naqsh-e-Jahan).
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomcat
Persepolis recently played at House here: excellent, and Offside (also at House) was good. The latter claims to have used non-actors in all roles, which may explain why the characters seemed so real.
I've read the Persepolis books, and thought they were fantastic; looking forward to seeing the movie. Haven't seen Offside yet.
Yes, having an Iranian sponsor you would be a good thing, I would say (it may even mean that you don't have to go with a tour).
If you were to go with a tour, I'm afraid I think you would have to stick with it. The authorities would get very suspicious if you didn't stick to the plan; you could even be arrested (and certainly deported). I would definitely speak to both the Iranian Embassy and a travel company about all this, though.
BTW jimbo: I've been trying to think, since you asked me, of an anecdote which could sum-up the Iranian people, and I've just remembered one which should go some way to that.
When I was at that deserted village near Yazd, an old man unshaven and tattily dressed, approached me. He was obviously a peasant farmer, and he'd been working in one of the "fields" nearby. We got chatting, and he suddenly started spouting poetry, which he recited for about 3 minutes. This guy probably couldn't read or write, may never have seen a day's schooling, yet he could recite classical poetry.
I cannot think of any other country where a man of such a background would be able to recite poetry. But this is not an oddity in Iran; the Iranians have been described as a "nation of poets" by many outsiders. Their most famous poets, Hafez and Ferdowsi (strangely, the poetry of Omar Khayyam, well-known in the West, is not rated by Iranians), even have state-maintained mausoleums, which Iranians frequently visit in much the same way as they go on pilgrimage to the shrines of religious saints.
^Let's not go too far in our generalizations: there are a few thugs among the poets, and not a small number of shyster carpet sellers, ignorant religious "scholars", money launderers, bazaari mafia groups, and the usual complement of delinquents many nations try to hide behind a whitewashed fence. (...and if the President really wants to know where to find a homosexual in Iran, I can recommend several locations from the airport customs personnel to the muddy banks under the Si-o-Se pol bridge. It was difficult to get a moment's rest, at times)
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Majestically enthroned amid the vulgar herd....
I guess the longer you stay there, the more you become aware of what's going on "behind the scenes".
I met a few overtly gay blokes at some of the parties I went to, and there was a gay German guy on my language course who definitely had an insight into that side of Iranian life.
But for the tourist (which I basically was, being there for just 4 months) the overall impression of the Iranians is a good one. The poetry thing is a genuine phenomenon, too; I'm not saying for a moment that everyone can quote poetry, but a significant majority can, and it's not dependant on educational background or social class.
^Unsupported hogwash, I'm afraid...I have yet to meet a Bakhtiari or a Qashqa'ie who can quote Hafez. The idea that your every day Iranian is more than basically literate, if that, is...well, open to question.
You need to get out of the cities more, Boonmee...North and South Tehran do not represent the nation.
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Majestically enthroned amid the vulgar herd....
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I guess the longer you stay there, the more you become aware of what's going on "behind the scenes".